Menswear, Soccer, Guitar.

The Gringo who saw What Gringos Shouldn't See 15-04-2014



I’m reposting a translation of an article which has received a bit of attention in Brazil and a lot of attention in Denmark but which I haven’t seen published in English yet.

It’s a story by a Danish journalist who came out to Brazil in September 2013 to live his dream…


This is an incredible thing to watch.

During a Ukrainian league match between Dnipro Dnipropetrovsk and Dynamo Kiev, Oleh Husev of Dynamo took a really nasty knee to the head from the Dnipro goalkeeper. Fearing that he might have swallowed his tongue, Dnipro’s Jaba Kankava reaches into his mouth and makes sure Husev’s tongue is not blocking his airway. You can see him immediately react and begin to breathe again. 

Alden #2 Shell, VIP makeup from unknown retailer.
A rare unicorn indeed.
Thank you to mdubs for the photo.

Alden #2 Shell, VIP makeup from unknown retailer.

A rare unicorn indeed.

Thank you to mdubs for the photo.

Simplicity done in the absolute best way.

Simplicity done in the absolute best way.


Prenuptial Prep Work

If you’re going to a wedding this summer—June is the most popular month for weddings—you probably already know. Etiquette says wedding invites go out six weeks or so before the wedding, but many couples send save-the-dates months ahead. Put This On gets questions pretty often asking where and how to get proper wedding attire (as a groom, groomsman, or guest) on very short notice. Don’t let it get to that point.

You’ll likely need some lead time if you want a proper ensemble like the Prince of Kent or Simon Crompton (pictured above). Think about what you might want to wear now, identify holes in your wardrobe, and then you can fill them at a leisurely pace via ebay and judicious purchases. Some updated tips from the PTO archives:

For Everyone

  • Morning coats, white tie formal, and black tie are traditional forms of dress. Wearing them appropriately keeps fading customs of men’s attire alive. Accordingly, if the wedding starts in the daytime, avoid black tie.
  • Tuxedos can be great, but for most modern weddings, lounge suits are a fine option for all men attending. Solid, dark suits are the best fit; stripes and black are best avoided.
  • Shirts should be white, preferably with a spread collar and french cuffs. Not a bad time to buy a nice new white shirt.
  • Stick with black shoes for all but the most casual ceremonies. Plain or captoe balmorals are more appropriate here than bluchers, brogues, or loafers.
  • A traditional wedding tie would be nice, but isn’t strictly necessary.

For the Groom

  • Congratulations, it’s your day! Haha, no it’s not. But it may well be the best excuse to wear a fantastic new suit and tie you’ll ever have. So do it up.
  • Details that border on flashy for business, like peak lapels, waistcoats, or one-button or double breasted suits, are great for weddings.
  • The bride, groom, and groomsmen need not all match, colorwise, but coordinating the level of formality is important or you’ll look like you’re going to different parties. If your bride is wearing a simple cotton dress and you’re getting married in a sunlit garden, it’s probably not a black tie occasion for you.

For the Groomsmen

  • As a groomsman, respect the couple’s wishes. If that means you have to rent a notch-lapel tux with a long tie and wear it before 6 p.m., just accept it and enjoy the open bar.
  • Get a haircut and shine your shoes.
  • If you’re a bride or groom and are deciding what to ask your groomsmen to wear, be considerate: new suits, especially specific, unusual new suits, can be expensive.
  • A good way to coordinate the groomsmen is to provide them with a boutonniere or tie, rather than forcing everyone into the same suit.

For the Guests

  • Again: solid suit, white shirt, black shoes.
  • Linen and cotton can be great in the summer. Seersucker, too, where regionally appropriate.
  • Add a swank wedding tie and/or a lapel flower for some personality.
  • It’s better to be a little overdressed than a little underdressed. But try not to outdress the wedding party. I know; it’s hard for Put This On readers.

For more on wedding attire, browse PTO’s archives or read probably the best single piece of writing on the subject: Nicholas Antongiovanni’s Wedding Attire in the Modern World.


Little Known Brief Menswear Tales: Nine Essential Style Rules



Rule 1. When combining different patterns, strike first at your enemy’s throat.

Rule 2. The classic American long wing blucher is balanced exactly like a boomerang and can be used in the same manner if the Starbucks line is slow.

Rule 3. When a workplace competitor asks your advice on…

New Arrival from Epaulet New York: Vass Oxblood Double Monks.

Suit: BB Fitzgerald
Shirt: Kamakura
Tie: Drakes
Shoes: Epaulet x Carmina


A Little History On the Casualness of Shell Cordovan

Shell cordovan is sometimes thought of as a “dressy leather,” presumably because of how expensive it is, but it’s actually something historically considered to be quite casual. Indigo Shrimp has some neat advertisements from the shoe company Wolverine, originally printed in 1910, showing one of shell cordovan’s original applications: a workboot material.

Shell cordovan, as many readers will know, refers to leather drawn from the rears of horses. The word cordovan comes from the city of Cordoba in Spain, which was once renowned for its prowess in tanning. In the 16th and 17th centuries, skilled workers there would tan horse skins so they could be used to decorate wall hangings, armor, and trunks.

It wasn’t until the mid-19th century that the term “cordovan” began to refer to the shell of horse butts (hence the name “shell cordovan”). Much of shell cordovan production at this time was in Germany, where it was sold under the name “Spigelware,” which translates to “mirror goods.” It’s a name we can safely presume comes from shell cordovan’s natural shiny finish.

In a letter written in 1934, Horween (a famous Chicago tannery) claims that the original German versions of shell cordovan were too thick and stiff to be used for shoes, and that it wasn’t until shell cordovan tanning came to the US (via German and Dutch tanners), did the process become perfected for footwear. Whether that’s just company marketing propaganda, or actual history, it’s hard to say.

In any case, when you see the term “cordovan” nowadays, it’s often just referring to a specific color – something that’s a bit reddish brown, and slightly darker than burgundy. It’s very close to what Horween markets as their “#8.” It’s really only when you see the full term “shell cordovan” that you can trust it’s the thick horse leather that so many people covet. Today, the material is mostly used for the making of casual boots, country shoes, and loafers (particularly the tasseled kind). You’ll occasionally see it in a “dressier” shoe, but the material is really something that should be considered quite casual. And, when you wear it, the rest of your outfit should be equally casual as well. Workwear jackets and work shirts with shell cordovan boots; chinos and Shetland sweaters with shell tassel loafers; or button down shirts and tweed sport coats with almost any kind of shell shoes.

Of course, the great irony here is that 100 years after these ads initially dropped, shell boots ARE running close to $1k a pair…

Maiden voyage tonight for a recently-obtained pair of AE Amok chukkas in Snuff Suede.

Trying to play black and brown together via texture differences.

Coat: Banana Republic
Shirt: Wolf vs. Goat
Denim: LVC ‘54 501z
Shoes: Allen Edmonds Amok